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You can also try to “bounce” your lights off of walls and ceiling(assuming your walls are white/grey). That way you can aim them at a wall and raise the bulbs higher towards the celing.
This may cut down on the direct heat onto you and your set. You will also need to readjust your camera, because the light will not be as bright, although it will maintain a softness to it.
Worth a shot!November 30, 2009 at 5:15 PM in reply to: Shot video in a photo studio–ambient sound a problem #166987
Try using Garage Band(assuming you have it-comes with the mac now). If you are not an advanced editor, this may be your key.
Once you import your audio into the track, find the podcasting effect and select Male or Femaie Narrator Noisy. You can then tweak if you would like, but depending on how bad the ambient sound is this may help without a lot of keyframming and tweaking.
Give it a shot!
Ok. What is your connection to your camera? Firewire-USB-Other?
If it is taking this long to find new media on every start/stop your only solution may be to do the tedious task of manually logging every clip(tedious if you are lazy like me).
Start the capture now, let it go for a few seconds, then roll the tape.
Also, if this persists, try and remember to shoot that way. Always give yourself about 5 -10 sec handles on each shot if possible.
Sorry I cant be more help, out of ideas without being able to see it in action.
There are a few solutions, but I have not had direct experience with them so I will not stray you to one product over another.
But, I will say, depending on your budget go for the best quality(read a lot of reviews). Saving a few hundred bucks is not worth the quality in wireless mics(speaking from experience)
Also, depending on your setup you will need to make some choices. There are systems that include a base transmitter and two/four wireless mics. The problem is, most of these transmitters have to be powered by an outlet(not batteries). So if you plan on moving your camera a lot or are short on space and like to move your camera a lot you will have to manage the power cord to the transmitter. If you do find one that is powered by an internal battery you will have to fork up some cash.
Pay attention to the specs on the transmitter. Make sure it has a full spectrum of available frequencies. A life saver is also have a “scan” function. This scans to the “cleanest” frequency in your area.
Good luck, and let us know what you find!
Might be too late for this one but….
A steadycam is most likely the answer. I work for a fortune 500 company with a minimal budget(how does that work) and I had to create my own steadycam.
A quick google search for $14 steadycam may just be your answer. I use it and can say it really works and it well worth the $14!!!
Here is the link just in case you dont want to search google….. http://steadycam.org/
I agree with EarlC and Grinner….
I like the shoot it twice with one camera approach. Try setting the camera off to one side while still looking ahead. Use this angle to cut away from the front view. This will create the illusion of a second camera. Even more, if you want, dont look at the camera when it is at the second angle. This will create a little ease for the audience (they are not being looked at the whole time). And feel free to add some flair to the second angle(if your not looking directly into it). Add some tone or go Black and White with that angle. It changes it up but keeps it from being too distracting.
This is a common approach to a project of this sort. It has not been overdone yet, so I say go for it.
Add in some “cutaways” like showing something that pertains to what you are talking about or some extreme close-ups of your hands or feet(during an action-putting in pocket, expressing). These cut aways can be shot at any time and depending on your original angle you may not need to worry about continuity.
Do you see this distortion in the Browser window while you are editing or only when you finish the product?
I use a PSD file and only import the “layer” needed. Do not use too many PSD’s as this is tough on FCP.
If this happens after compressing, try setting the compression settings field order to upper or lower depending on your sequence settings.
JPEGs almost always mess up in FCP. They are not the best format to use. I get “jumpy” pixels on bright colors or some distortion on movement like you guys have described.
A couple things:
Are you going to an onboard hard drive or an external drive? This may be causing the slight delay as it writes the current video before going to the next.
Try changing your settings to NOT “create new clip on Start/Stop”. This way it will capture straight through and you can go back and create subclips, then use Media Manage to get rid of all the excess video.
If you are not familiar with subclips, I would reccomend reading the help file in FCP. Subclips are perfect for doing what you are doing.(capture now – not logging every clip as it is captured)