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Avoid strong back light or reflective (white) background.
Use the same temperature lights in all fixtures and manually white balance to minimize color correction in post.
Use the settings on your camera to brighten, or darken … iris, aperture, shutter speed, exposure settings.
If you “know” 3-point, 4-point lighting then wattage, distance and angle should be included in that knowledge. However, to avoid shadows, hair light, rim light, framing light should be high and 45 degrees angle to avoid Frankenstein shadows. Diffusion should be used to soften lights.
When the apparent lighting is even and smooth, or diffused the way your eyes tell you is acceptable for what you want to achieve, then use camera settings, white balance and a monitor to fine-adjust for recording.
I’ve used 500 watts or less in 3 or 4 units, and I’ve used 1,800 watts with my NRG stage lighting 3-light system and using diffusion, bounce and other techniques have successfully achieved the effect I desire by visually (eyeballing) adjusting for even lighting, flat lighting, spotlighting or whatever. If what you see “looks” right to your eyes, then the rest can be obtained with camera settings.
If hot spots on the subjects faces is noticeable to your naked eye, and/or your production monitor, then THAT light needs diffusion, distance, less wattage in order to balance with the other lighting.