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Are you using the stock lens? If so, that’s part of your problem. Also, are you hand holding the camera? Camera shake doesn’t lend to sharply focused shots. Also, why are you shooting at 25p for? Is this a ‘PAL’ based project? If it is, shoot at 50p to get smoother looking video when downconverting to 25p.
Mostly, when shooting aerial still or video you’ve got to get a handle on the following factors;
1) Your lens. Cheap lenses make for poor aerial imagery. You’re going to have to spend a bit more to get good glass which will have few if any aberrations in the glass lenses. Also for aerials, you want to use prime lenses not zooms. Lastly, the type of lens you use will factor into how your image will look. Unless you’re trying to get ‘Planet Shots’, avoid wide-angle lenses. Normal lenses of 45-50mm to telephoto up to 150mm will best serve for aerial shooting. Longer telephoto lenses are useful for specific targets being filmed at altitude.
2) Filters. You’ll need at least a UV Haze on your lenses during the shoot. Depending on the light conditions, Neutral Density filters ranging from .3 to 1.2 will help cut down on the amount of light transmission through the lens and bring out scene color and contrast. Polarizing, Skylight and other types can be of assistance in crafting the look of your shots.
3) Aperture, Framerate and Shutterspeed. Sharp focus is critical for aerial imagery. The way you get that is in concert by using smaller apertures, faster framerates and faster shutterspeeds. Smaller apertures will create deep depth of field, the faster framerate in video mode will present less blurring of the image by increasing the number of frames recorded and in concert with a fast shutterspeed which enhances the look of the video by reducing motion blur.
4) Camera stabilization – Aerial photo/video works’ toughest problem is keeping camera and camera operator steady. Between aircraft mechanical vibrations and aerial environmental interaction, keeping your rig from ‘rockin’ and rollin” means the diff between you just wasting a crapload of money on a flight and getting the ‘money shots’.
There are numerous expensive units with gyro stabilizers which are worth every penny if you can afford it. On the way cheap, you can rig setups with bungee cords and or camera straps which can be a big help but you’ll have to master the technique to make it work. Get it in your head that you cannot depend on any built-in camera stabilization, especially from a consumer/prosumer camera. It will not be adequate. You’ll have to acquire a ‘fluid’ hand in addition to the type of stabilization you end up using.
So yeah, up to a point you can fix it in AFX. The key is to reduce or eliminate the need to use that option. You do that by following the aforementioned steps. Happy flying!