" You don't necessarily need a green screen. The easiest way to achieve that effect is to take your DSLR (if you have one), and zoom in anywhere between 55 and 300mm. "

You can do the same with a camcorder ( ugh ! ) also. While yer at it, why not shoot in monochrome for a REALLY classy, artsy look!

 It's about apparent depth-of-field mainly. Field depth, (that is the amount of a shot's 'depth' which is in acceptably, critically if you like, sharp focus), is usually a function of the focal length of the lens used, whether prime lenses, or part of the range of a zoom. Because depth-of-field is shallowest at the more extreme 'telephoto' end of the scale it usually pays to back off a bit and re-frame your shot so as to register it in the way you wished, by using telephoto, instead of going too close. Some camcorders, sadly, allow this only to a limited extent. On the other hand, ultra-close is another way of achieving limited field-depth.

 There is a bonus to that, as well, as it is possible to create a powerful '3D' illusion, by isolating something in critically sharp focus, against a background which is just a tad 'off' providing your camcorder has the 'critical-sharpness' firepower. The other way, if you have the control, is to adjust your camcorder's dynamics, in any of a number of ways which will cause the lens's diaphragm to open-up a bit, which also reduces depth-of-field. An easy way, without having to modify your camcorder's settings, is to screw-on a neutral-density filter which accomplishes the same thing. Again, low lighting will bring about the same effects, but insufficient light will tend to will raise noise-levels.

 At the end of the day, it's a whole heap of 'trade-offs'. Having always been a fan of carrying a battery of lenses, I have been pleasantly surprised what my camcorder (a 'Panasonic' HDC-SD900), is capable of doing, without 'supplementaries' or filters, just by having a damned good lens, and image processing  to make the most of it. 

 Ian Smith

 Dunedin , New Zealand.

Hi Paolo,

As others have already said, I think the shallow depth of field you are seeing has been added in during post with he use of a green screen. If you wanted to recreate this look though, I would suggest a DSLR with a very fast lens. If you can get a prime lens with a maximum aperture of F2 or even quicker, this should give you a very shallow depth of field. A good cost effective option are the Olympus Zuiko lenses. You could use something like a 50mm F1.4 and then reposition your camera to aquire your desired framing. As long as there is some distance between your subject and the backdrop, you will achieve the blurred look.

Depending on the camera you choose, you may need to purchase a lens adaptor to make the Olympus Zuiko range fit. These are very cheap though. I myself use a 1.4 50mm with a Canon 5D and a Panasonic AF101. Both require different lens adaptors, but the results are very impressive.

Jamie Field

Head of Production

www.toplinecomms.com