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- This topic has 4 replies, 1 voice, and was last updated 8 years, 10 months ago by Anonymous.
- April 14, 2011 at 2:13 PM #37817AnonymousInactive
I am trying to light a table and I am having problems eliminating shadows. I have a table that is in front of a Green Screen. The green screen is lit fine and is not a problem. The table will ultimately seem as though it is in front of a window and it is morning. The problem arises because I have to move objects around on the table. I have a small box of fruit in the back left corner of the shot and then I set a glass down. After the glass is set down a piece of fruit is removed from the box by a hand from the right side of the screen. I am producing unrealistic shadows on either the glass or the arm depending on how my lights are setup. Can Anyone offer any advice? Thanks.
- April 14, 2011 at 4:49 PM #167508D0nParticipant
to be honest this sounds like one of those situations where I’d build an actual set. a wall with a window and lighting (or Greenscreen behind the window) to mimic the outdoor morning scene, then use a large softbox above the table to light the table..
but either way you need one large softbox to mimic the type of light one might expect to see reflected off a white ceiling as the main light then some kind of fill light to control contrast.
remember your greenscreen and you subject need to be lit seperately!
- April 14, 2011 at 5:19 PM #167509AnonymousInactive
I was thinking of floating my reflector disc with the white side over the table and bouncing light off that. I dont have a C-Stand with a Gobo Arm to put a soft box over the table. How similar would the effects be with a reflector disc? The cameras frame is not tall so I could have the disc relatively low over the table.
My green screen is lit separately. That is the one thing I am able to control right now. I just threw out a double window frame last summer that was sitting in my garage for two years waiting for this exact moment. D’oH!
- April 14, 2011 at 7:06 PM #167510D0nParticipant
well the reason I’d go with a set is because I’m better with lighting and construction than I am with special effects… it seems to me that any reflections on the glass and flatware on the table is gonna have to reflect the surroundings… so a lot of work if all they’re reflecting is green…
as for the glass table, my rule is you don’t light a shiny surface, you light whatever is reflecting OFF the shiny surface so for a glass table you’re gonna want something really big so any reflections from the camera angle look as if there was a ceiling….. so whether you have a ceiling and light it, or fake it with a softbox or some kind of diffuser… like say a bedsheet stretched across a 1×2 wooden frame… it needs to look right in camera.. does that help?
- April 15, 2011 at 12:09 AM #167511YvonParticipant
Glossy white surface reflect at least 98% of incident light, you can apply on table surface adull sprayfinishremovable water base paint or cover with white mate vinyl this is used for TV studio to avoid light flash or bouncing (interior sign vinyl) or cover the table withwhite tissu this cut the reflexion or diffuse the reflexion.
Just few ideas the best solution is to cut the problem.
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