Help with shooting artwork

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    • #37276
      AvatarAnonymous
      Inactive

      I want to hire a professional video company to shoot original artwork – mostly paintings. I want to create a short film with these images. I need a very high quality production. The main feature of the shoot is a very slow , perfectly smooth zoom shot of the art. I first tried shooting the artwork with a pro still photographer and then using high end zoom effects in the editing. But there was a significant degradation in image quality this way so now I am exploring shooting with live video. I need to know what kind of equipment a video producer should have to give me a top notch result.

    • #165062
      AvatarD0n
      Participant

      as a person that shoots both still and video…..I’d have gone with the still images.

      2 lights at 45 deg angles with polarized gels over them, a flatfeild macro lens with cir polarizer on it, tripod.

      zooms and pans in finalcut motion, in hi def.

      if you got low quality from a pro, something wasn’t done right.

    • #165063
      AvatarAnonymous
      Inactive

      Thanks Don,

      When I say the image was degraded, it really wasn’t that much but any degradation I consider significant.

      The original still shot files are very good but once processed with the zoom software, I can see some fall off in quality. What program do you use for adding zoom effects to still shots?

      I figured that a high quality live video zoom of the artwork would be superior because you don’t have to do any post production fiddling after.

    • #165064
      AvatarchrisColorado
      Participant

      I’m both a filmmaker and a graphics designer and I would also stick with the photos if possible.

      Now, if you have used Adobe Photoshop and/or Illustrator, you might or perhaps should know the difference between Raster and Vector graphics. I’ll keep it short.

      Vector Graphics(ie. Adobe Illustrator art) use math to calculate points, so no matter how far you zoom in, they are always high quality.

      Raster Graphics, or pictures/still photos(ie. Adobe Photoshop stuff, obviously) are raster which meansthey’re made of tiny pixels. This means if you zoom into them, you lose quality and eventually you can see each individual pixel.

      If you zoom into a photo, you will lose quality. I useAdobe After Effects for manipulting photos combined with Photosop, if necessary. You could try After Effects and use the continous rasturization, but i’m not sure it would work. I might try a pan instead or a slow, small zoom and then change to another shot, but it’s up to you.

      I hope this helped you or gave you ideas.

    • #165065
      Avatarfaqvideo
      Participant

      As a news cameraman I happen to shoot artwork occasionally. For that purpose I am using broadcasting camera, Panasonic 615. NTSC frame size is 720×480, it’s equivalent to low end still digital camera though.

      Have you tried scanning your artwork?

      FAQ Video

    • #165066
      AvatarAnonymous
      Inactive

      There is really no question that using unadulterated video will provide higher quality than efx’d video. So if you have easy access to the artwork, there’s no reason you can’t shoot by hand and get exactly what you desire.

      In case you care, here’s the problem with using your stills. Zooming into a bit-mapped graphic is no different than cropping the image (or the electronic zoom.) Whether you start with 2.4 meg or a 12 meg photo, there is a point in cropping where the dpi & size combined becomes less than the number of required pixels. So your first step should be to crop the photo to your maximum desired zoom and examine the image. I’m guessing you’ll find the source of the degradation once you do this. Keep in mind that pixels in a photo are like film grain, the closer you zoom, the bigger they get. If the cropped photo, enlarged to TV size still looks sharp, We should look elsewhere.

      Another problem spot is in the file type. Except for .BMP’s (and RAW’s?), all still image formats are compressed in one way or another. During the calculations required to expand the image ever & ever larger, tiny errors are accumulating into a kind a pixel soup. This would be a variable dependent upon the algorithms used to perform the the compressing & decompressing. So there may be an upward limit of zooming for each set of codecs (or the rules for saving & opening files.)

      But come on, if we could just enlarge a photo like they do on crime shows, we wouldn’t actually need to shoot close ups. The amount of enlargement any image can sustain is limited by the data in the file. Film is limited by grain, digital files by the data encoding & file size. But both constitute real limits. A common error we make is when we zoom in to half the size of original image we think we are ignoring half the data. Actually it is three-quarters of the data we are ignoring. So if we start with a 8×10 inch print and reduce it by half to a 4×5 print, the 4×5 only uses one fourth of the available data. (8×10 is 80 square inches, 4×5 is 20 square inches and 20 divided by 80 is 1/4th.) So we are not realizing how much we’re throwing out when we zoom in.

      Now if we apply this math to your zooming situation, I’m pretty sure your final frame is less than than what we call halving the frame size. Going from the full image of a typical painting into what is generally considered a detail shot for a painting reduces the dimensions of the frame by more than 1/8th. So if we have a 8 foot by 10 painting, we are talking about a one foot by one and quarter foot area, it’s a size where brush strokes can be clearly seen. But let’s jump up to the two foot by two and a half feet size. Simple math reveals that from 80 square feet of data to 5 square feet of data is a reduction of 1/16th in data used. So If you started with a 16 meg file, you are now dealing with merely a 2 meg file. But both images are being displayed at the same size & resolution. So you gotta think we’ll notice a quality loss pretty soon. Now to avoid this problem, you’d have to start with a mosaic of mammoth proportions. But it can be done.

      Still, I think you’re the kinda dude who wants to show the delicate details you can’t see from books & reprints. You can probably work out the details for electronic zooming. But there’s a reason pros use optical zooms. And you’re not going to be satisfied with adequate. To get excellence in images you are best served by recording the real thing. And I think it is tons more fun to shoot artwork than push pixels around anyway.

      Good luck with whatever you decide.

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