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- This topic has 5 replies, 1 voice, and was last updated 10 years, 1 month ago by Anonymous.
- January 9, 2010 at 12:18 AM #45845AnonymousInactive
First post in this forum, thanks in advance for any help you can provide. I searched all over this BB with no luck getting the specific information I’m seeking.
I use a Sony HDR FX1 camcorder to shoot HD footage inside hockey arenas. Primarily, I am up in the stands, away from the ice surface.
For some reason I keep getting large fluctuations in the lighting and I believe it has something to do with the florescent lights used in the arenas. There also seems to be a correlation between the amount of zoom and the light level fluctuations. When I zoom in the picture seems to brighten up.
Here http://vimeo.com/8507644 is a link to a video I shot last week. There are examples throughout but you can see them easily around 1:28, 1:43 and 1:58.
I shoot the video in manual setting levels. Typically the settings will be as follows: shutter speed 125, gain 3db, iris is around 2.8 to 3.4 (depending on the zebra exposure), zebra is set at 95, white balance is set to indoor and calibrated using a “Shooters Blues” card (blue side). Focus will usually be set to automatic, but I will sometimes set it to infinite if the subject is far enough away.
By way of setup, I will calibrate the white balance at the arena, turn the iris dial until the zebra starts showing up and the shoot away. I have no idea if that makes sense but that’s my process.
I edit using Pinnacle Studio 14 Ultimate, typically utilizing the auto color correction feature. I will also try to use the white balance feature if things are too dull. The light level changes are prevalent before and after post production, in case you are wondering.
If anyone has any ideas on how to eliminate the light level changes or
thoughts on achieving proper color balance etc. I’m all ears. Thanks in advance.
- January 10, 2010 at 5:33 PM #189769AnonymousInactive
- January 10, 2010 at 9:13 PM #189770colintelecomMember
I sometimes shoot hockey with JVC HD7’s and I have noticed that using an aperture priority semi-auto setting is best. For arenas that don’t regularly televise games, you run into a mix of lights. (fluorescent, sodium, halogen) I set my zebra to 100% and sometimes white balance against the boards. Your footage looks like the camera is reacting to a different TYPE of light reflecting off the ice as you zoom. Hope this helps.
- January 10, 2010 at 9:23 PM #189771XTR-91Participant
Sometimes, the best option for attaininggood brightness is to allow your mind to settle with the simple, usually-trustedAuto-gain. Personally, I’d set the Gain to automatic and turn on manual Exposure, whichwill allow you to have some control over the brightness. The camcorder will tend to keep the scene adequately (and evenly) lit. Manual exposure should only be used if there’s a particular scene with too many bright colors or whites that are blowing out of the screen.
- January 11, 2010 at 12:12 AM #189772AnonymousInactive
Thank you, I will try those mods and see what happens.
I do believe there is some truth to the light reflecting off the ice and its affect on the lense and colour changes.
- November 7, 2012 at 4:25 AM #204744
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