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September 1, 2009 at 2:42 PM #41703
Any tips for making a master DVD for duplication?
What speed to use (4x, 8x?), how to avoid dropped frames, DVD – or + best to use? Is one brand better than another for the master? for the dupes?
September 2, 2009 at 10:18 AM #176478AnonymousInactive
Probably to have the dups pressed…
but next to that, since you’re probably going to use an authoring program, my best tip is to first make your files compliant mpeg’s using a good encoder like Procoder or HC (free). Then simply drop them into your authoring program making sure to tick the “do not re-encode compliant files” box they all have. This way, your full disc should be done in 20 minutes or so as opposed to taking 8 hours to make your disc or ISO by letting the authoring program itself convert your files. A lot of programs don’t have progress bars and you don’t know what it’s doing all this time. Many fail in their conversion. With the above method, you’ll quickly find out within 20 minutes if you’ve been successful because you’ve spent the time making them compliant beforehand.
I usually burn at half the rating.
With a perfect master, all you’re doing is exact digital copying bit for bit.
It will be obvious if you’ve dropped a frame long before you burn a disc.
DVD-R’s had a little bit better compatability but that was 5 years ago. It probably doesn’t matter these days. I’m using +R’s at the mo…
One brand certainly is better than another. In fact, you’ll find that cheap media is the #1 problem with DVD’s. I’d recommend top of the line Taiyo Yuden (available online only) or Verbatim (available locally) media for all your discs. What’s a whole 13 cents between friends?
September 6, 2009 at 9:16 PM #176479
Thanks for the excellent info
The frame drops didn’t appear until the project went to DVD. The disk is Verbatim DVD-R. I’ve used DVD+R in the past but I ran out of those. I normally save the DVD-R for duplication. I have seen some high priced special “mastering” DVD disks at a photo store and I had wondered if they really made any difference.
The bit rate was my first suspicion. I also wondered whether anti-virus programs or other things might have been interfering. I will also try using a lower copy rate. I think I had used 8X.
The machine should have plenty of memory and CPU speed. The project in question was completed before I got Premiere/Encore so I may try to encode to MP2 and try mastering in Encore. I haven’t noticed the problem with other past projects.
September 6, 2009 at 11:34 PM #176480Grinner HesterParticipant
of course, the slower the better. I never use 8X. If ya google verbatim disc errors, you’ll see it’s the number one offender. They are cheap but
well they are cheap. I have a client that insists on buying me those for their DVDs. They are the only ones I (well they) aver have problems with.
September 7, 2009 at 2:54 AM #176481EarlCMember
Tim, if you go with Taiyo Yuden, 8x (4x if you can even find them) you will never be disappointed. The way you create your master will dictate dropped frames or other production abnormalities (unless your original footage had glitches, dropouts or buggy frames you did not, or could not correct and made it into the final master DVD.)
With today’s selections of DVD duplication towers, many of them fitted with hard drives to hold a “master” of your master DVD, or even accept USB or firewire input direct from your computer, you can create some really high quality DVD duplicates as many as 7, 10, even 15 or more at a time.
Zoobie is spot on regarding dash DVD blanks as opposed to plus DVD blanks. When you purchase TY blanks be sure they are the premium graded and not the lesser grade some web site sellers offer.
September 13, 2009 at 2:32 AM #176482
Thanks for the advice.
The strange thing about this one is that the dropped frames only show up on my laptop. In a “real” DVD player the disk plays normally.
But I’m still going to switch master disks and record slower. I have some Phillips and LG disks. Maybe I’ll do a comparison test.
September 13, 2009 at 8:10 PM #176483EarlCMember
Underpowered laptop computers are notorious for “smooth” playback inconsistencies. All but the most powerfully equipped will occasionally, if not often, generate the “dropped frames” skips, stalls and other anomalies many experience.
If the DVD plays correctly and smoothly in a REAL player then the faulty playback issue is most definitely with the laptop, and not the disk IMHO.
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