Hi, I've been making videos for several years now, but I'm trying to expand to the next level. I'm currently using a Panasonic AG-DVC7 as my main camera. Right now, I'm trying to give my movies more of the film appearance, but I cant really decide on whether to go full or wide screen. I am having trouble deciding, because on my camera (it's SD and full screen), when I select the "Cinema" setting instead of having the "extended" picture it just crops off the top and bottom which to me seems to defeat the purpose of having it widescreen. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Forums » Production Techniques
Full Screen vs. Wide Screen
(10 posts)-
trekkie1701D
Member
Posted 3 months ago # Login to Send PM -
With SD, chopping off the top and bottom will be the best you can do in that direction. What I've read is, put black tape along the top and bottom of your LCD screen along the edge(not touching the screen itself of course) and then compose your shots. You can use your "cinema" setting instead of tape. Then if the the top comes back in, just pull in black bars on the top and bottom in your editing software.
I'd go wide to make it seem a little more like film. But that's just me. However, I wouldn't go to all the hassle of buying a whole new "widescreen" camera.
It does seem a little strange to just chop off the top and bottom, but you do what you gotta do. Get creative with your shot composition.
Posted 3 months ago # Login to Send PM -
Are "cinema" and "extended" 2 settings in your camera that attempt 16:9? If so, one is Letterbox and the other is 16:9, but it's not true 16:9. I'll explain what I mean.
Letterbox footage is 4:3 footage that has the top and bottom cropped off. On a 4:3 television it will look fine. If you watch a 16:9 movie on a 4:3 TV, you'll notice it will look the same as your letterboxed 4:3 footage you shot. Now this is the downfall on letterboxed footage: If you watch that same 16:9 movie on a wide screen TV, it will fill the whole screen. But what happens if you watch regular 4:3 footage on a widescreen TV? It has black bars on the sides because it isn't large enough horizontally to fill the screen, ya know what I mean? Now if you take that 4:3 footage and now letterbox it, then watch that on a widescreen TV, not only will it still have the black bars on the sides, but it all has the image cut off at the top and bottom from the letterboxing, and that looks horrible. It's like a 16:9 image that doesn't fill the screen; like it was scaled down or something. Does this make sense?
Now this is what I mean by "not true 16:9." If you're camera doesn't have 16:9 CCDs or CMOS sensors, then it will not shoot true 16:9. Since your camera has 4:3 sensors instead, what your camera is doing is stretching the image, and then when you capture it with 16:9 settings, your NLE will squeeze it and you will end up with a 16:9 image. This image will look the same as a letterbox 4:3 image when you watch it on a 4:3 TV, but it will also fill a widescreen TV like your 16:9 movie. The downside to this is all that stretching and squeezing degrades the image.
In conclusion, if you want a cinematic look, you want a 16:9 image whether you achieve it via letterbox or the stretching mode of your camera. If you are POSITIVE your film will only be viewed on a 4:3 TV, then the letterboxed 4:3 image is the way to go because it doesn't degrade the picture. But if you think there is a chance it will be viewed on a widescreen TV, then shoot the stretched method.
I personally think letterbox will suffice since not maybe people have widescreen TVs yet. If you plan on shooting a lot of films in 16:9 though, a camera that shoots true 16:9 might be a nice investment for the future though.
I hope that helps. Good luck
ps. if you want a cinematic look, there is more you have to do besides shoot 16:9 and 24p. So don't forget to light like film, execute camera movements like film (no zooming!), try to get the shallow depth of field of film, etc...
Posted 3 months ago # Login to Send PM -
So don't forget to light like film, execute camera movements like film (no zooming!), try to get the shallow depth of field of film, etc...
What's wrong with zooming? I used to zoom on Super-8 all the time with no problems. I know you cannot do anything very fast (zoom, pan, dolly or truck) but why not zooming at all?
Posted 3 months ago # Login to Send PM -
zooming it just something you don't see in hollywood films. They always dolly in or out. It's more cinematic looking, i think because you're eye can't zoom in like a lens can. You can only walk closer to something to get a close up.
You can zoom in to get your shot...but don't record the zoom. ya know what i mean?
Posted 3 months ago # Login to Send PM -
ralck
Member
zooming it just something you don't see in hollywood films.
I disagree. Just look at a film like Cloverfield. There is very evident zooming in that movie, granted it's made to look like "amateur" footage, but that still shows zooming in Hollywood.
What about a movie like Lord of the Rings? In Fellowship, they used zooming, though it may not have been aparent. The used a technique called a zoom tracking shot or dolly zoom shot. It's where they zoom in as they track out on a dolly, or zoom out as they track in. The idea is it changes the perspective of the scene while making it feel as if we are almost not moving. I think Jaws might have used this shot too, but I can't remember for certain.
Also, I just wanted to point out that though a shallow depth of field is very common in film, it's not set in stone. Just look at Orsen Welles.
Posted 3 months ago # Login to Send PM -
Jeez. I don't mean they NEVER zoom. Yes there are movies that have have zooming. Some have a lot, some just a little, but for the most part, hollywood films dolly before they zoom.
and yes...i know you don't ALWAYS see shallow DOF. but once again, FOR THE MOST PART, they do.
Posted 3 months ago # Login to Send PM -
ralck
Member
I'm sorry if I upset you with my post; that wasn't my intention. You did say twice that zooming didn't happen in Hollywood ("no zooming!" and "always dolly in or out") so I just wanted to expand upon what you said and make sure the OP knew that zooming can be done in certain cases.
To me this forum is about collaborating together to create the most accurate and best information about film in one place that is easy for people to find and understand.
Again, I'm sorry if I've upset you.
Posted 3 months ago # Login to Send PM -
nah man, you haven't upset me. don't sweat it man. Thanks for the concern though. Sorry if I came off as if I was flipping out. I agree, we're here to help and collaborate
Posted 3 months ago # Login to Send PM -
trekkie1701D
Member
Thanks for all the tips. I'm hoping to make one of the 35mm adapters sometime. I've got an old CD player and the clear CD, so I might try a cheap one at first.
Lighting is the one thing I've never really had success at. I really only have access to stage lighting and some old shop lights, but I'm hoping to try some stuff out soon.
Posted 3 months ago # Login to Send PM
