Apply a piece of double-sticky tape to the uncut piece of faux fur on the cloth (non-fuzzy) side, and press it down firmly. Remove the backing from the tape, and put the half-piece of faux fur you just cut - with the fuzzy-side down - onto the tape to extend the length. Press it down firmly, and keep pressing on it to make sure it adheres well through the fuzzies on the surface.

Loop a rubber band through the feeder cage about 2" from the end, and then loop another on the other side of the cage diameter in an exactly opposite position. Loop two more in like fashion at the other end of the feeder cage, so you'll have a total of four rubber bands looped.

Here's the feeder cage with the four rubber bands looped and waiting to receive the mic within the cage.

Slide the mic in with the cable end toward the rear of the cage. Note how the rubber bands provide an excellent shock mount for the mic, which is an Azden SMX-10 Directional model. It's a simple but very effective solution.

Drill a 3/8" hole in the feeder end cap to accommodate the mic cable, thread the cable through and affix the cap using the original hanger that came with the feeder. In addition to holding the end cap on the blimp, this hanger will serve nicely as a cable-keeper if you loop the cable around it.

Here's a view of the blimp before you add the fuzzy faux fur covering. The screen strainer simply pushes snugly onto the end of the feeder cage, and the original bird feeder hanger holds the rear end cap in place.

Cut a square from the remaining piece of faux fur material. Spray the fabric side with some all-purpose spray adhesive, then affix it onto the strainer cone. Trim any excess with scissors, and work the material so that it sits on the strainer grill as smoothly as possible. Use newspaper to avoid getting any adhesive overspray on your work surface.

Spray the outside of the end cap with adhesive, and use the remaining faux fur material to cover it. Use the scissors to pierce the material for the cable access hole.